Remote Solar LED Light

I created this circuit in an attempt to make the simplest possible solar powered project. It would make for an excellent science fair project, and would also serve as a good introduction to solar powered circuitry. It may also have some practical uses, such as shedding some light into a dark part of your house. The idea is simple, the solar panel converts sunlight into a trickle of electricity. The electricity is used to run a white LED.

 Remote Solar LED Light  Circuit Diagram

Specifications:

• Operating Voltage: 3.7V DC
• Solar Current: 25ma max.
• LED Lamp Operating Current: 10-25ma.

Theory:
The remote solar powered LED light takes advantage of the current limited nature of solar photovoltaic cells. If light shines on the solar array, current will flow through the circuit. For a typical size of solar cell, there is a maximum current that can be produced. The maximum solar cell current is simply matched to a value of current that the LED can handle. If there is enough light to raise the solar panels voltage above around 3.7V, the white LED will light up. The LED regulates the maximum voltage across the circuit to around 3.7V.If the solar panel that you use produces more than 20ma, it may be necessary to insert a series resistor between the LED and the solar panel to prevent the LED from burning out.

A 50 ohm 1/4 watt resistor is probably about right for the job, the exact value may need to be optimized according to the solar panel that you use.This concept could easily be expanded to systems with larger arrays of solar cells and more LEDs. The capacitor is not required, but it will keep the LED from flickering if the panel is briefly blocked, such as when a bird flies by. With 7 solar cells, the LED will only light in fairly bright light, if you use up to 10 solar cells, the circuit will work nicely in overcast skies.For an interesting modification to this circuit, replace the 1000uF capacitor with a 1 Farad/5.5V "Memory Backup Capacitor". An Elna DB-545D105 device was tested on the circuit, after charging up in the sun for a few minutes, the capacitor was able to light the LED for several minutes.

Construction:
Most of the work goes into making the solar panel. Lay out the cells in any pattern. Cut the two pieces of plexiglass and one piece of perforated circuit board so that they are wider than the solar array. Stack the three board layers together and drill holes for the mounting screws. When the project is finished, the center circuit board will be spaced away from the front and back plastic panels with extra nuts acting as spacers on the mounting screws. The idea is to get an air gap above and below the circuit board so that there is room for the solar cells and wiring.

Mount the solar cells on the perf board and solder them into a series string. An easy way to do this is to connect short segments of bare wire-wrap wire to each cell, route the wires through the perf board and solder the ends on the bottom. Connect two wires to the ends of the series string of cells and secure the wires to the circuit board. For outdoor applications, seal the edge of the panel with silicone caulk or other water proof material. Also, seal the mounting screws where they pass through the plexiglass.Connect the LED and capacitor in parallel, wire them across the two power leads. Be sure to get the polarity correct, otherwise the LED wont light up. Solder the parts together. Be sure to heat-sink the LED leads while soldering, LEDs can be easily destroyed with too much heat.

Use:
Place the solar panel in the sun, the LED will light. The photo at the top of this page shows the circuit operating indoors on a cloudy day. If you put the LED on a long wire, it can be placed in a dark location, such as a corner of your basement. As long as there is a fair amount of light in the sky, the LED will light up. To get the best orientation for the panel, aim it directly at the sun at noon during March or September.

Parts:
7-10x photovoltaic cells, rated at 15-25ma each.
1x white LED, high efficiency types work best.
1x 1000uF 15V (or greater) electrolytic capacitor.
1 piece of perforated or printed circuit board.
2 pieces of clear plexiglass.
28 gauge bare wire-wrap wire.
24 gauge speaker wire.
miscellaneous screws, nuts, and washers.
silicone caulk.

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Solar Relay

With extended periods of bright sunshine and warm weather, even relatively large storage batteries in solar-power systems can become rather warm. Consequently, a circuit is usually connected in parallel with the storage battery to either connect a high-power shunt (in order to dissipate the excess solar power in the form of heat) or switch on a ventilation fan via a power FET, whenever the voltage rises above approximately 14.4 V. However, the latter option tends to oscillate, since switching on a powerful 12-V fan motor causes the voltage to drop below 14.4 V, causing the fan to be switched off.

In the absence of an external load, the battery voltage recovers quickly, the terminal voltage rises above 14.4 V again and the switching process starts once again, despite the built-in hysteresis. A solution to this problem is provided by the circuit shown here, which switches on the fan in response to the sweltering heat produced by the solar irradiation instead of an excessively high voltage at the battery terminals. Based on experience, the risk of battery overheating is only present in the summer between 2 and 6 pm. The intensity of the sunlight falling within the viewing angle of a suitably configured ‘sun probe’ is especially high precisely during this interval.

This is the operating principle of the solar relay. The trick to this apparently rather simple circuit consists of using a suitable combination of components. Instead of a power FET, it employs a special 12-V relay that can handle a large load in spite of its small size. This relay must have a coil resistance of at least 600 Ω, rather than the usual value of 100-200 Ω. This requirement can be met by several Schrack Components relays (available from, among others, Conrad Electronics). Here we have used the least expensive model, a type RYII 8-A printed circuit board relay. The light probe is connected in series with the relay. It consists of two BPW40 photo-transistors wired in parallel.

The type number refers to the 40-degree acceptance angle for incident light. In bright sunlight, the combined current generated by the two photo-transistors is sufficient to cause the relay to engage, in this case without twitching. Every relay has a large hysteresis, so the fan connected via the a/b contacts will run for many minutes, or even until the probe no longer receives sufficient light. The NTC thermistor connected in series performs two functions. First, it compensates for changes in the resistance of the copper wire in the coil, which increases by approximately 4 percent for every 10 ºC increase in temperature, and second, it causes the relay to drop out earlier than it otherwise would (the relay only drops out at a coil voltage of 4 V).

Depending on the intended use, the 220-Ω resistance of the thermistor can be modified by connecting a 100-Ω resistor in series or a 470-Ω resistor in parallel. If the photo-transistors are fastened with the axes of their incident-angle cones in parallel, the 40-degree incident angle corresponds to 2 pm with suitable solar orientation. If they are bent at a slight angle to each other, their incident angles overlap to cover a wider angle, such as 70 degrees. With the tested prototype circuit, the axes were oriented nearly parallel, and this fully met our demands. The automatic switch-off occurs quite abruptly, just like the switch-on, with no contact jitter.

This behavior is also promoted by the NTC thermistor, since its temperature coefficient is opposite to that of the ‘PTC’ relay coil and approximately five times as large. This yields exactly the desired effect for energizing and de-energizing the relay: a large relay current for engagement and a small relay current for disengagement. Building the circuit is actually straightforward, but you must pay attention to one thing. The photo-transistors resemble colorless LEDs, so there is a tendency to think that their ‘pinning’ is the same as that of LEDs, with the long lead being positive and the short lead negative. However, with the BPW40 the situation is exactly the opposite; the short lead is the collector lead. Naturally, the back-emf diode for the relay must also be connected with the right polarity. The residual current on cloudy days and at night is negligibly small.

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